I ATE AT THE CARDIFF INSTITUTION THAT'S AMONG THE LAST OF ITS KIND IN THE CITY CENTRE

There are some places that, thankfully, don't lose their shine with age and familiarity. In an ever-changing world it is more important than ever to have places that can take you back in an instant.

When I first moved to Cardiff in my early 20s, Le Monde quickly became our go to place for a night of good food and a great atmosphere. There were many Friday nights straight from work when you would shake off the stresses of the week with a trip to the laidback, fun Spanish-style restaurant.

Known for its sawdust-strewn floors, steak-cooking expertise and the perfect wine list that would suit all tastes, it was a real Cardiff institution.

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It's a restaurant that has straddled the Cardiff foodie scene during the '80s, '90s and beyond. The Martinez family, who have built up an impressive portfolio of restaurants in Wales in addition to Le Monde, opened the restaurant in 1985.

They are still very much in control and continue those themes of only using locally-sourced meat and vegetables, an ever changing menu depending on the best they have found on the day and cooking on charcoal grills.

Refurbishments over the years might have seen an end to the sawdust and for something more modern, but the team have a winning formula and have managed to retain the magic that has kept customers coming back time and time again.

Le Monde in Cardiff is truly an institution, and for good reason. Having been around for 40 years, it’s one of those rare gems that remains consistently excellent even as the years roll by. For the latest restaurant news and reviews, sign up to our food and drink newsletter here

Life got in the way for a while, so my visits became less frequent, but returning for a birthday meal recently felt like a homecoming.

Climbing the stairs from the hustle and bustle of St Mary Street, you are greeted by a full display cabinet of fresh meat and fish, the traditional menu boards above it and an open kitchen where you can see your food being made.

The boards are colourful and packed with information and the counter which is filled with fresh meat and fish certainly tempts you to choose the top end pieces which look so fresh.

The staff are knowledgeable, they visit the farms where the produce comes from and and happy to offer advice on the best choices and best deals. It immediately felt just like old times.

What struck me most was how the quality has not diminished over the years and while it is not a cheap night out there are meal deals, like £32 for two courses that can make it more affordable.

We were celebrating a birthday, so pushed the boat out and none of us were disappointed. We often go for steak when dining out but the vast menu was so tempting we tried a variety of options, from beautifully spiced lamb koftas starter (on the £32 for two courses menu) to succulent lamb (£26 for main meal) that slipped right off the bone.

The pork belly (served as a main on the £32 for two courses), served on a bed of red cabbage, was another standout, rich with flavour and the perfect balance of crispy skin and tender meat. The goats cheese starter (£9) served on a bagel and bed of fresh salad was also a stand out.

The extensive wine menu also needs a mention. Care is obviously taken in picking some of the best wines and we opted for a Bodega La Flor Malbec for £33. Only one of us (the ever-hungry teen) could fit in a pudding and the succulent brownie served with a chocolate sauce was a reasonable £8.50.

It was a Monday night and when we arrived at 6.30pm, the restaurant was very quiet but our fears over a lack of atmosphere were soon allayed as the room filled up with other families, tourists and business people, as well as the regulars who were on first name terms with the staff. The setting has a real classy feel to it, you feel like it is a treat and the service was exceptional.

During the Rugby World Cup of 1999, the restaurant broke its record and served 1,000 meals on the day of the final (a match that saw Australia cane France 35-12) and that tournament also saw Wales' legendary goal kicker Neil Jenkins turned away - for wearing jeans!

It remains a matchday staple, with our waitress telling us they had served 700 people when England played Wales in the final game of this year's Six Nations.

Le Monde continues to deliver that same welcoming atmosphere and outstanding quality it always has. It’s comforting to know that after all these years, the magic is still there — if not even stronger.

So much has changed in the city centre, and in our lives, since those Friday nights when we didn't appreciate how carefree we were. Many, many establishments have come and gone over those many, many years.

It is comforting to see that there is still this institution for people who appreciates well-crafted dishes served with care.

2025-04-26T15:58:00Z